AROUND BODRUM

Paved roads fırst penetrated the Bodrum Peninsula in the 80's. The pack camels which provided the chief means of transport before are still alive, left unemployed by the advent of trucks and minibuses. The quaint fıshing villages of the Peninsula have only recently begun to shed their solitude, although the process is moving fast.

Bitez, it haslots of establishments for every tourist and lots of restaurants that can serve beautiful foods. It's 10 Km away from center. This bay is suitable for windsurf fans.

Ortakent, until recently called Müsgebi, is the largest village of the Peninsula. Its architecture is rather striking, having kept an even purer traditional appearance than Bodrum. Many older houses are built in the form of small private fortresses, evidently with defense in mind. The tallest of them, the Mustafa Pasa tower-house is dated to 1601. A row of disused windmills line the ridge of hills behind the village. Ortakent Beach, a few kilometers off, offers pretty countryside and a dozen simple pensions on a pebbly bay. West of it are a series of attractive coves with tiny settlements which are not accessible by paved road: Kargı, Bağla, Karaincir, Akyarlar.

Turgutreis can be disappointing, sadly exhibiting resort development at its most brutal. Its redeeming features are a matchless sea-view with a great number of islands, some Turkish and some Greek, and a delicious fısh soup which locals eat for breakfast. Tiny Kadikalesi remains a charming place with its tiny quayside square, church converted into a barn and considerable fortress. The latter gives the village its name "Judges-fort" and originates in the 18th century, a period when the distinction between, judge, bandit and warlord was not always clear. Turgut Reis is it is the hub of activity boasting its own market on Saturdays, a Tourism Bureau, and it is a departure point for many buses travelling through Anatolia. Daily boat trips can be taken from Turgut Reis - some go south to Karaincir and Akyarlar while others head to Gumusluk and Yalıkavak. If you like walking, this part of the peninsula is interesting and offers some challenges for active people through a volcanic landscape which is always dramatic, whether covered in flowers after the rain, or barren and looming in the shimmery heat of high summer.

Offshore from Turgut Reis lie 14 small islands. These are used both by the local fishermen who stop off there, and by local farmers as extrapasture land for their animals.

Gümüşlük has become a favorite quiet spot for those wishing to escape the crowds of Bodrum; as a result it stands in danger of getting too crovvded itself. The village proper is in the hills and offers a few exquisitely pastoral pensions. The coastal part consists in a single row of tumbledown fish restaurants along a deep, lake-like harbor. Gumusluk shares its site with that of ancient Myndos, the city which Mausolus had ordered built to bring urban ways to the local Lelegians. The area is full of bits of the old city, mostly itı the form of stones used in villagers' houses. More can be seen submerged under the harbor, making a snorkeling tour of the bay a memorable event. The islet at the harbor entrance remains home to families of rabbits an enterprising villager introduced a few years ago for breeding. The actual purpose of the experiment is somewhat vague but the result delights villagers and tourists alike.

Yalikavak remains a predominantly fıshing village with more sponge divers among its residents than pension and restaurant owners. It also keeps the only functional windmills in the entire Peninsula. Situated 18km from Bodrum, Yalikavak is famous for its beaches, strong fresh sea breezes and as a result is popular with wind-surfers. Also, it has one of the finest views of the Peninsula from the windmills. Look south in the morning into the dazzling sunshine and a super panorama presents itself... look north and west in the evening for an unforgettable sunset. Yalikavak's history goes hand in hand with that of Bodrum. Today, most of the archaeological remains are either underground or undenvater. It is thought that on top of one of the hills, now covered with olive trees, once stood an ancient city. However, all that remains today are a few tombstones and the black city walls which stretch down into the valley. There is a Carian cave tombe wall worth
seeing close to this ancient city. The size of a small room, it has been carved directly into the rock and fronted with cut stones. It once contained a funerary urn in the shape of a ship's prow which is now on display in the Bodrum Museum.

Gündogan, a pleasant large village in a neck of craggy hills, remains similarly unspoiled. Hidden in the ridge above the village and accessible by an arduous climb are the ruins of a small Greek monastery offering a splendid view of the countryside.

The twin villages of Gölköy and Türkbükü offer a good overnight alternative for those wishing to stay close to Bodrum without committing themselves to its hustle and bustle. Türkbükü is also recommended for a lunch trip to any one of the fıne seafood restaurants lining its pleasant quayside. The hills on the far side of Türkbükü are rich in the relics of an ancient Lelegian/Carian settlement including many rock tombs of the Carian style. Several islands and secluded coves accessible by rowboat from the harbor offer quiet swimming opportunities.

Gölköy is an inland village by the sea 18 km north of Bodrum. It is the only heavily forested area in the region. The village is divided into upper and lower Gölköy. In more ancient times it seems that the upper part, with fewer osquitoes and consequently less malaria, was where the richer inhabitants used with those less well off living in lower Golkoy. The area was once occupied almost exclusively by Greeks and today it is still possible to see the remains of anumber of Orthodox churches.

Until as recently as 50 years ago, Golkoy didn't even have a road and the locals made a living out of fîshing and sponge-diving. Since 1970, tourism has flourished and now a great mix of people live in the area, but it's still possible to come across people who remember the old days. If you're after fun and relaxation, your dreams will come true in Golkoy as it's the perfect place to spend your summer holidays.

Facing the sea with its back to the mountains, Türkbükü is surrounded by ancient sites. There are remains on top of Andizli Hill, and at nearby Degirmendigi there are caves and tombstones.

Until comparatively recently, the local population made their living from farming and fishing. Since the rise of tourism however, Turkbuku has become home to a very intellectual group of people; journalists, authors and artists who have built desirable homes to get away from the cities. However, the character of the village on the sea remains. Jetties are purpose-built to support fıshing feasts for gourmets, and at night the sea appears to be lit by bobbing lanterns and flickering candles.

In 1994, in response to environmental concerns, the local inhabitants formed an association called the "Turkbuku Village Environmental Protection, Culture and Tourism Society". This very active group have just conducted a film festival and secured the installation of a village sewer system.